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Architecture & Ambition: Turkmenistan’s Bold Marble Capital

Since independence, Turkmenistan has shaped its future with grand architecture, replacing Soviet remnants with marble-clad buildings and monumental designs.

The Palace of Happiness, a marriage registry office, (2018), Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. Credit: Arnau Rovira Vidal
The Palace of Happiness, a marriage registry office, (2018), Ashgabat, Turkmenistan.Credit: Arnau Rovira Vidal

Since breaking from the USSR, Turkmenistan has worked to erase its Soviet past and build a new identity—one defined by architectural spectacle. Nowhere is this more obvious than in the capital, Ashgabat.

Over the past decade, President Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow, officially titled “Distinguished Architect of Turkmenistan,” has led a dramatic overhaul of the city. Historic monuments have been torn down, thousands of buildings razed, and in their place, vast white marble stadiums, towering monuments, and modern citadels have risen—unlike anything seen in the West.

Ashgabat now holds the world record for the highest concentration of white marble-clad buildings: 543 new structures covering 4.5 million square meters. In a country where over 70% of the land is desert, water has been diverted from the Amu Darya River to keep the city’s fountains running.

Marble clad apartment housing for residents of Ashgabat, (2018), Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. Credit: Arnau Rovira Vidal
Marble clad apartment housing for residents of Ashgabat, (2018), Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. Credit: Arnau Rovira Vidal
The world's largest indoor, and marble ferris wheel, (2018), Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. Credit: Arnau Rovira Vidal
The world's largest indoor, and marble ferris wheel, (2018), Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. Credit: Arnau Rovira Vidal
A horse head above the central stadium, (2018), Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. Credit: Arnau Rovira Vidal
A horse head above the central stadium, (2018), Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. Credit: Arnau Rovira Vidal

This obsession with grandeur extends to the Alem Entertainment Center, which made it into the Guinness Book of World Records as the world’s largest enclosed Ferris wheel—built for $90 million. Ashgabat’s Wedding Palace registers up to seven couples at a time. It has three ceremony halls, seven banquet halls, and a dedicated room where newlyweds are required to pose in front of the President’s portrait.

For the 2017 Asian Indoor Games, the government built an entire athlete village from scratch and revamped the city’s main stadium. The Ashgabat Olympic Stadium is now topped with a 600-ton white marble horse head—an homage to the Akhal-Teke, Turkmenistan’s prized horse breed. President Berdimuhamedow has even written poems and songs about it.

Turkmenistan isn’t just replacing its Soviet legacy; it’s building a carefully curated new national image. Spanish photographer, Arnau Rovira Vidal’s original photographs of this unique city are available on his website.

The Palace of Happiness, a marriage registry office, (2018), Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. Credit: Arnau Rovira Vidal
The Palace of Happiness, a marriage registry office, (2018), Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. Credit: Arnau Rovira Vidal
Marble clad houses for residents of Ashgabat, (2018), Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. Credit: Arnau Rovira Vidal
Marble clad houses for residents of Ashgabat, (2018), Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. Credit: Arnau Rovira Vidal
A skytrain infront of the athlete's village, (2018), Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. Credit: Arnau Rovira Vidal
A skytrain infront of the athlete's village, (2018), Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. Credit: Arnau Rovira Vidal
Estonian SSR Matchbox Art - Blue Tallinn cityscape with playful matchbox element (1960s)Estonian SSR Matchbox Art - Blue Tallinn cityscape with playful matchbox element (1960s), framed in apartment with parquet floors and soft sunlight

Tallinn

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Estonian SSR, 1960s

Tallinn

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Estonian SSR, 1960s

Estonian SSR Matchbox Art - Train and buildings in blue railway centenary design (1970)Estonian SSR Matchbox Art - Train and buildings in blue railway centenary design (1970), framed in apartment with parquet floors and soft sunlight

100 Years of Railway in Estonia

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Estonian SSR, 1970

100 Years of Railway in Estonia

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Estonian SSR, 1970

Soviet Russian poster (1977) by R. Suryaninov. Shows a man and woman with a red flag and sickle, promoting communist ideals.Soviet Russian poster (1977) by R, Suryaninov, Shows a man and woman with a red flag and sickle, promoting communist ideals, framed in apartment with parquet floors and soft sunlight

Aeroflot, 45 Years Uncut Matchbox Sheet

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Russian SFSR, 1968

Aeroflot, 45 Years Uncut Matchbox Sheet

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Russian SFSR, 1968